My twenty six hours starts mid flight to Lima, Peru at just past midnight on Friday night. Over the previous hour of our flight from Bogota, I’d had a marvelous chat with Deanna, a special education teacher from northern Virginia. Deanna was heading to Lima along with her hair dresser, Erika, and a group of Erika’s clients who have all been helping Erika in her support of a boys’ orphanage here in town. They are visiting the children and gaining a better understanding of the needs of the orphanage.
Start the timer when I admit to Deanna that we still haven’t figured out the very small detail of knowing where we’re going to spend the night after we land in the dead of night in a completely foreign city. Perhaps we’ll sleep at the airport. Deanna asks Erika, who knows more about the area, to advise us and Erika doesn’t miss a beat in offering to let us stay with them on the couches at the house her parents own in the area. We accept, of course! A bit later Erika comes back and suggests that we stay instead at the orphanage – they have a private guest room and the logistics made sense in terms of us fitting into the minibus heading that way.
Upon landing, we head through customs with our new friends. They each have 150 pounds of checked baggage which is all donations of clothing and toys for the orphanage. Our job is to each just walk along next to someone in order to increase the human-to-bag ratio for the entire group. Jennifer gets stopped by customs and fined (apparently it’s not copacetic with the customs folks to bring in huge bags to donate to orphans) but is through no worse for wear after fifteen minutes.
Aileen and I end up in the minibus with the group of four orphans who’d come to greet Erika and her friends for their 1am arrival, Miguel who is the director of the orphanage, and another of the tutors for the kids. The kids hum and play the Beatles song “Yesterday” on the recorders Erika brought for them. One of the kids asks Aileen what the word “yesterday” means in Spanish and it takes us a minute to match the word up with the song they are playing. This is all pretty surreal. We arrive at the orphanage, Santa Maria, around 3:30am and are shown to one of the nicer rooms we’ve stayed in during our trip. I fire up the computer, mostly out of habit, and discover a working, unprotected wifi connection. I tweet about my crazy night and pass out.
We’re greeted by a knock on the door and the promise of breakfast at around ten in the morning. We head out and meet up with Miguel who leads us across the courtyard and to the kitchen. He pulls out some bread (baked by the boys at the orphanage), jam, butter, and coffee and sits down to chat while we eat. Aileen’s high school Spanish pays off and she is able to tell Miguel all about us. Miguel listens intently and asks many clarifying questions. He says that he’ll later tell the children about how studying hard and learning about computers can open doors for the future. Role models are always in short supply at an orphanage.
Aileen and I spend the morning meeting the children, playing with them, and taking a grand tour of the orphanage. The boys are particularly excited to show us the animals they keep: horses, dogs, and pigs. Aileen is particularly struck by how much attention the kids seek; even kids at that age where we expect them to be ‘too cool’ for adults are constantly reaching out to hold hands, get a hug, want their picture taken, and are hanging upside down from the jungle gym shouting, “Look at me!”. Personal attention is also in short supply at an orphanage with 130 boys ages 5-18 and only 8 adults. Erika and gang show up around lunch time and we spend the afternoon taking a more formal tour and learning about life on the orphanage. Miguel tells us we’re welcome to stay for a week, six weeks, or however long we like for no charge. We’re tempted, but there is so much we want to see and do in Peru so we decline.
After finding a nice hostel and a few much-needed hours of down time, we head out to meet up with Erika, Miguel, our other new American friends, and Erika’s Peruvian cousins for dinner. We have a great dinner and learn a lot more about Erika’s work with the orphanage (e.g. she’s already traveled five times to Peru this year to visit “her kids” at the orphanage).
What comes next is perhaps less surprising that our time at the orphanage, but those who know me understand it’s way outside of my comfort zone: we head out to the discotheque! Simply put, the music is blaring. I feel the beat pounding through my body. Oh boy! We stay and dance for hours. OK, I, as Aileen put it, “moved a little” while other people dance. The people watching is enthralling and the music, um, very, very loud. Around one in the morning the “model show” starts and we watch male and female models show off various crazy outfits for the crowd and professional photographers.
At 2am we arrive back at our hostel and wake the guard to let us in. I’m exhausted but truly enriched by twenty six unexpected hours. Thank you Erika, Deanna, Jennifer, Ann, Miguel, and the boys of Santa Maria for a very special experience!
More pictures here.






RB // Nov 16, 2009 at 4:23 pm
Nice
Cynthia // Nov 16, 2009 at 11:08 pm
It sounds so similar to the kids I met in the villages of Cambodia!
Since you guys are in Peru, might I suggest a trip up the Tambopata River for some ecotourism/macaw watching. I think the easiest way to do this is to get to Puerto Maldonado which I think you can fly to from Cusco.
Cynthia // Nov 16, 2009 at 11:12 pm
I think you need a yellow fever vaccination to go though…
Luke // Nov 17, 2009 at 9:42 am
What a cool serendipitous event. That’s my favorite part of traveling.
Gray, you moving “a little bit” is no thang. Remember: less is more.
Chaohaus // Nov 17, 2009 at 6:28 pm
Awesome. “Oh boy!” indeed.
kristel // Nov 17, 2009 at 6:38 pm
Gray went to a discotheque? where booty shaking was involved? *falls over*
it looks like you guys are having a blast, and I’m loving living vicariously through you
Lera // Nov 17, 2009 at 7:10 pm
That’s an awesome story, really enjoyed reading it
Unrelatedly, how do you decide whether to write in present or past tense?
I’m amazed at the things you’re doing with (relatively) minimal Spanish (like bargaining!) Do you have any language books or mp3’s with you or are you coasting on high school knowledge and whatever you pick up along the way?
aileen // Nov 18, 2009 at 5:53 am
I dunno, Gray just wrote in the present tense on this one. Artistic license I guess.
Mostly I’m coasting on high school spanish (which thankfully is coming back to me quite a bit). Gray has been studying some online and with mp3s. We are thinking about picking a town or city we look and doing a several-week language course. We’ll see…
Asayo // Nov 18, 2009 at 11:21 am
I love it when I come across with these unexpected but wonderful experienced by meeting new people! I am going to Peru next January. I can’t wait to go there!
Erika James // Nov 23, 2009 at 6:06 am
Thank you for sharing your pics. and blog with us! Any awareness brought to Santa Marias Boys Home is a huge help!!! God Bless you, Aileen and Gray, on your travels!