Where's Grayleen?

The Colca Canyon has been at the very top of my must-see list since we first arrived in Peru and I read about it in our Lonely Planet guide (now available on the Kindle!). Officially measured as the second deepest canyon in the world – #1 by just a bit is Cotahuasi Canyon right next door – it is 10,500 feet at it’s deepest. That’s twice as deep as the U.S.’s Grand Canyon. The desert climate, the mountains, and the giant gash in the earth make for dramatic views. Most importantly to me, the whole area is known for great day hikes along the rim and overnight trips down into the canyon.

We were not up to the task of capturing the full grandeur of the canyon, but this isn't too far off

We decided to start our tour of the canyon by taking the bus along the rim to the scenic overlook known for condor sightings, Cruz del Condor, and then hiking back to the town in which we were staying, Cabanaconde. Our bus turned out to be packed, standing room only, with locals who travel the road along the rim either to be dropped off at one of the thousands of irrigated terraces where they farm or to purchase supplies at a neighboring town. We arrived at Cruz del Condor in time to see two different condors soaring through the updrafts that rise from the warmer canyon floor. Admittedly, they were very far away and looked like black bird shapes, but we were pleased none the less! The 12 mile hike back was full of green terraces contrasted against the dessert landscape of the non-irrigated mountains and canyon.

We followed a major aqueduct for a good portion of our hike

The next morning we walked out to the edge of the abyss and, following a surprisingly well maintained trail, descended rapidly down into the canyon. The trail snaked its way along the south side of the canyon and eventually dives into the depths in a long series of switchbacks. In all, we descended approximately 3,500ft to arrive at the river at the bottom at around 11:30 in the morning¹.  This was hot, thirsty work and there is no opportunity for relief from a sun that is directly overhead. And I mean it, we stood right on the heads of our shadows. Aileen was showing some early signs of sun poisoning and we luckily found a tiny cave in which to hide right after crossing the bridge at the bottom. With 30 minutes of rest, Aileen was ready to press on up the other side which, being below irrigated fields, help trees and much shade. We arrived in the early afternoon at the town of San Juan de Chuccho, population 25, and quickly found an absolutely adorable place to stay named Gloria’s. Here, our room was 10 soles ($3) and two course home cooked meals 5 soles ($1.66), a far cry from the prices at the Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

On the way to Sangelle

Having properly internalized our lesson on the power of the sun, we started off on our second day before six in the morning and before the sun had even begun to reach down into the depths of the canyon. We followed a trail further up the far side of the canyon, through two more towns, and down to the town of Sangelle right near the level of the river. Along the way, we rounded a corner and caused an unsuspecting perched condor to take flight, providing us with a much closer view of the giant bird than we’d seen at the lookout. Survey says? Impressive, but very ugly up close. Sangelle is commonly referred to as “The Oasis” or “Paradise” and that about sums it up. It’s a group of properties upon which have been built high quality mud huts surrounding fancy swimming pools – exactly what we needed after three long days of hiking! Having arrived before 8:30am, we spent an entire day swimming, napping, and hanging out with members of a tour group.

The next morning we work up even earlier than the day before, and started out on a trail back up and out of the canyon by 5:15am. It took us about two hours to climb the switchbacks straight out of the depths of the canyon to the top. This time the sun only reached us right as we crested the canyon rim and it was quite welcome at that point as the increased altitude had made it a touch chilly. Thirty minutes of flat walking later, we were back in town with time to change, drink banana smoothies, and squeeze in a quick second breakfast before boarding a 9am bus back to Arequipa. Phew!

Sunset view from Cabanaconde

Colca lived up to every expectation. We had four wonderful days of hiking and saw a new and different side of Peru. I must admit, though, that I had a hard time not comparing every part of the canyon to the wonderful trip we had to the Grand Canyon with family this past January. Sorry Colca, but my heart still belongs to the Grand Canyon.

More pictures from Cabanaconde and the Colca Canyon here.

1For those that are counting, that’s 1,200ft shy of the height of the South Kaibab trail in the Grand Canyon. Colca may officially be twice as deep – measured who knows how – but the hike certainly is not. This is something the guide books and tour agencies never mention.